I've received one vote for each of (1) cut the access hole, (2) cut the
studs, (3) pull the engine if necessary, but do not cut an access hole, and
(4) cut a check and let the experts deal with it. I'm leaning to choice no.
4.
Roger, did you find a pre-made part to swap out or did your mechanic make a part? Who did the work? Thanks.
Robert E. Izmirian
rizmirian@comcast.net
From: Roger Craine [mailto:craine.roger@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 11:11 AM
To: Robert Izmirian
Cc: olson911@sailpix.com
Subject: Re: Help please
Bob
My riser (pipe to the heat exchanger) rusted out several years ago. We faced the same problem and better mechanics than me quickly decided to cut the box--wood is soft. Then we removed and replaced the riser and patched the box using I think a couple of wood strips.
I don't know if this counts a thinking outside the box.
R
On Sat, Nov 15, 2008 at 9:06 PM, Robert Izmirian <rizmirian@comcast.net> wrote:
If you own an Ericson-built boat with a Universal M-16 motor and have fixed/replaced a leaking exhaust riser I need your advice. It looks like the riser was installed on the motor before the cabinetry was built around the motor box. I've managed to get the 3 nuts unfastened, but the studs are so long that I can't pull the old riser off because of the lack of room to the back of the motor box.
It seems my Hobson's choices are to cut off the studs to remove the riser or cut an access hole in the back of the motor box. The riser itself looks like it was put together by a handyman with surplus parts from a plumbing supply shop. I'm assuming it's original equipment, but who knows?
Anyway, any help or advice is appreciated.
Hope everyone is well. Those of us on the West Coast are enjoying unseasonably warm weather on SF Bay and loving it.
Bob
Jane Doe
28555
Robert E. Izmirian
rizmirian@comcast.net
-- Roger Craine Economics UC Berkeley Berkeley, CA 94720 510-642-3021Received on Sun Nov 16 18:22:23 2008